Cruising Alaska
The Safari Explorer discovers fins, fur, feathers and fun in the Inland Passage
Courtesy of American Safari Cruises / Times Newspapers
The scenery is awe-inspiring aboard the 145-foot Safari Explorer.
"Starboard, humpback whales,” said Captain Scottie over the intercom. All 20 guests abandoned activities such as brushing teeth, pouring the first cup of coffee and raced to the bow.
Huge sprays of vapor plume shot into the air creating a loud “whooshing” sound. Foghorn-like noises followed as three humpback whales dove beneath the surface. One by one, their tails rose and slapped the surface.
Eight days in September held excitement for my husband, Bill, and I as we ventured with American Safari Cruises into Alaska’s Inland Passage. Our vessel, the 145-foot Safari Explorer is aptly named. A small ship, the captain gets us “up close and personal” with remote glacier fjords, bays and inlets.
Our odyssey begins
We assembled in the Hotel Goldbelt’s lobby, in Juneau. Our shipmates came from Australia, Texas, Washington, D.C., California and Oregon. We boarded a bus to nearby Douglas Island. Our guide explained about the gold mining history of the area.
Next stop, the Safari Explorer. Our group of 20 was enthusiastically welcomed by each crewmember, followed by champagne and appetizers. On board, we met the exuberant owner, Dan Blanchard.
Afterward, we were escorted to our cozy cabin and shown the amenities of life aboard — our mariner stateroom, wine library, dining area, bar and salon, captain’s bridge (we could visit any time), hot tub, sauna, massage area, upper deck, exercise machines, kayaks and two skiffs that were towed behind our ship.
Glacier Bay National Park
One of many highlights was our visit to Glacier Bay National Park, a United Nations Biosphere Reserve and a World Heritage Site. Only a dozen tidewater glaciers remain from an ice-filled Glacier Bay of 250 years ago.
American Safari Cruises is the only company with a permit to stay two days in Glacier Bay. This is due to its relatively small size, quiet engines and observation of environmental regulations.
The Safari Explorer anchors each night. Our days consisted of following whale pods with binoculars, using kayaks, skiffs, hiking or even swimming. Yes, a few polar-bear-wannabes dove into the 34-degree waters and then sprang into the hot tub.
As we cruised, slippery kelp floated by, bearing bulbous heads. Several otters with their chestnut-brown eyes and straw-like whiskers peered our way as we neared Point Adolphus. Our cruise continued among a granite archipelago, the Inian Islands, known for birds and marine mammals.
The second morning, we picked up Ranger Randy Thomas at Bartlett Cove, headquarters for the national park. He stayed onboard for two days. Even without binoculars, he had the eye of a hawk in spotting creatures. With his Arkansas lilt, he enlightened us about wildlife and the wilderness. He referred to Al Gore’s “Inconvenient Truth” and stated, “We are altering the climate.”
At one point, the ship stopped to view Mount Wright and Mount Fairweather (15,300 feet) looming in the distance. One of our expedition leaders remarked that it is “the highest coastal range in the world.”
After viewing these wonders, our expedition leaders, Vanessa and Kevin, as well as Ranger Randy, provided talks about geology, glaciers, salmon life cycles and anything of interest to us.
An assortment of wildlife
We cruised to South Marble Island, observing birds nesting while “orking” sea lions basked on mammoth rocks and bald eagles swooped over us. In the afternoon, we explored Lamplugh Glacier by kayaking, skiffing and hiking in small groups.
Kayaking was the first choice of most. The paddles in motion, our fire engine red kayak glided toward the glacier, among the “ice soup.” Beneath blue skies, snow-topped peaks, smooth granite mountains and lichen-covered hills surrounded us. The air smelled clean and fresh, with just a hint of marine life.
Our chilled faces turned upward at the 300-foot glacial walls. Silence broke as explosive cracking noises unleashed, followed by a thunderous roar as “calving” or “breaking off” of icy hunks crashed into frigid waters. “White Thunder” is what the Tlingit natives call this phenomenon.
Aqua-bluish colored icebergs floated by us. Only the tip showed while 90 percent was concealed beneath the surface. Erosive winds would eventually change them into what-does-that-look-like shapes. As one passenger commented as we paddled among the ice floes, “It feels like I am floating in a frozen daiquiri.”
Skiffing was the next adventure. Bundled into life jackets, our skiff headed toward the John Hopkins Glacier. Clouds partially draped the icy peaks overlooking it.
Other wilderness highlights included viewing Margerie and Grand Pacific glaciers; walking a one-mile loop at Bartlett Cove in temperate rainforests, hiking near glaciers, kayaking in arched caverns — while hundreds of salmon swam below us — and cruising in Pavlof Harbor and Takate Bay.
We observed a brown bear and cubs. Bears swiped salmon with their claw-paws, larger than an adult’s outstretched hand. Only parts of the fish lay along and in streams. Once, a 5-year old cub carried a salmon until an older bear grabbed it. The cub went running.
Toward the trip’s end, we visited Endicott Arm with plans to kayak near Dawes Glacier.
However, the winds whipped up to 25 mph and the seas were choppy. Excitedly, we put on orange survival suites, hopped in skiffs and embraced the weather.
The final day, as we saw Juneau in the distance, a bittersweet feeling came over us. Bitter because it was near the end except for goodbyes, and sweet due to the extraordinary crew, adventures, gourmet meals, ship, owner and shipmates — truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Did I tell you about chocolates on our pillows each night or warm drinks such as Irish coffee and hot buttered rum awaiting us after our outings?
Tualatin resident Sandra Kennedy is a freelancer who contributes occasionally to the Times Newspapers.